These were put in the "Bater Town" thread here yesterday if you wanted to see pics.Īll said & done they turned out very well- only surpassed by a very good sound for a modest two way speaker of vintage heritage. I also painted the baffles black for an elegant touch and refinished the cabs. Lastly I got some dark grey wide (1") dense foam sealing tape and stuck on the woofer and tweeter holes to seal the drivers up to the cabs. Information in a SDS form will advise the end user on handling and storage, environmental measures and proper disposal along with other pertinent. I drilled out the RCA female connectors on the back of each one and put in a couple of spring loaded connector I had laying around. Safety Data Sheets (SDS) are designed to provide specific information regarding the properties of a particular chemical or substance. Be sure to get a good premium Poly or Mylar caps for best results. The other cap is a dual 4 uF, again you can twist both of four uF together or just get an 8uF and insert it. They are a three ligged cap so take a couple 2.2 and twist one end together and solder the other loose ends to the swith legs like the old one had them. You can pretty well bet the caps are shot as well, mine well for sure. I tested the surrounds on mine with a drop of mater and it pour through- sao woofer resealing was a must! I also put some of this on the dust cap just to have a good match It does a great job sealing those pourus surrounds. Get a small throw away hobby brush as the can brush is to large to do it with. Put it on the woofer front surrounds as thin as you can. I used an old AR trick for mine, it was Permatex 98H gasket seal. I just finished a nice pair of Model 20's- oddly enough, they do sound exceptional with a recapping and woofer re-doping. I think they should sound pretty good with my Dynaco tube setup. If this 20 refurb goes well maybe I'll take a crack at the 6's next. I'm still looking for a good way to accomplish this without making frankensteins out of the cabs. I haven't been brave enough to cut into them yet. Unfortunately they are the older 6's with the sealed drivers. They need the same treatment that my 20's are getting. I will definately take all of this info into consideration when I pick this stuff up. Thanks for all of the foam/caulk recommendations. I forgot to list this difference when I mentioned the binding post differences. Get the Scotch-Mount double-sided tape at Amazon (125 inches), Ace Hardware (350 inches), The Home Depot (55 inches), or Lowe’s (350 inches). I usually tend to take the "if it aint broke, don't fix it" approach to things anyhow. That is something I can easily do later if I decide they need it. Rainbow Duct Seal Putty is used primarily by the building and specifically by the electrical trade to seal around electrical boxes, flashings, and service mast entries, etc. The base polymers used are very stable against UV effects so there are inherent natural properties for this resistance as well.Well since there is no definative answer I will just hold off on the redoping for now. Anti-oxidant inhibitors are present that also help prevent UV degradation. The pigment absorbs the UV light and transfers it to heat, lengthening the life of the polymer bonds that make up the sealant. UV Inhibitors: Contains a pigment that serves as a UV stabilizer. Non-Irritant: No irritation to eyes or skin as listed in CFR, Title 16, “Appraisal of the safety of chemicals in food, drugs, and cosmetics. 200 volts per mil (ASTM D149-64) or 10 KV.Ĭhemical Resistance: Excellent resistance to water, alcohols, mild acids and bases. for use in meat and poultry processing areas under Federal Inspection.ĭielectric Strength: Approx. Acceptable: Chemically acceptable to the U.S.D.A. FDA Approved: As listed in CFR, Title 21, being composed of ingredients acceptable for packaging and transporting food.
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